how to take off in flightgear fight gear tutorial

If we print at normal paper sizes up to A1 and obey Rule number One, we don't need megapixels. If we post on social media, and the web (including high-quality sites like 500px) we don't need megapixels. If we obey Rule Number One (Be as close to the bird as possible) we don't need megapixels! They are only useful for making bigger images, or for cropping into images where we photographed the bird from too far away in the first place. You can pick this combination up for R 10,000 while a brand new Canon 750D and 70-300 kit lens will cost R 10,000 and will be next to useless for Bird in Flight shots because of the few autofocus points, lethargic 5 frames per second, slow-focusing, dark lens and viewfinder and limited focal length.

They will be better in every respect!Īn example of a classic combination of this type is the Canon 1D mark ii N (an 8.2 megapixel pro-sports camera from 2006 - admittedly getting a bit old now, check prices on the 1D mark iv maybe) and the Canon 400mm F5.6 lens. There are some legendary bodies and lenses knocking around for a fraction of the new price of a so-so mid-range modern camera. Just rate each of the camera and lens options according to your most common shooting conditions.ĭon't be afraid to go for good second-hand. With these two scenarios in mind, it should be an easy process to decide on the best gear we can afford at our given budget. Support/monopod/bean bag (this prevents us blurring our pics due to our own movements) Lighter/Shorter lens 300-400mm (this will allow us to move stealthily closer to our birds) Wide Max Aperture (this allows us to use fast shutter speeds in low light - golden hours) Good support/head (this prevents us blurring our pics due to our own movements) Longer Lens 500-600mm (this helps us to photograph more distant birds when we cannot move, or smaller birds close to us)įast FPS (this captures nice wing positions and fast action) Good AF (this gets us the shot and gets it in focus!!) Situation 1 - in a hide - Birds in Flight: So where does this leave us in terms of what gear to use? If we are in a bird hide or fixed position near an attractive resource (like a waterhole, or a pond or a feeder) we cannot approach - we may need a longer lens and possibly a pair of cameras with different focal length lenses or a zoom lens because the bird is in control of the distance, not us. We can go about getting closer in two ways, we will either stay still and let the bird come to us or we move towards the bird.Įach of these conditions describes a different set of gear. There is the obvious danger from hippo's, crocodiles, and snakes but, perhaps more worrying, are the risks we expose ourselves to from tick bite fever, bilharzia, malaria and any number of other unpleasant malady's. Blundering around in a South African swamp (I live in South Africa) is dangerous for several reasons. One other consideration in getting close should be our own personal safety.

Don't be satisfied with a cursory check either - some tactics are not immediately obvious as damaging.

A photo isn't worth destroying habitat or endangering a bird. Before using Google and some of the suggestions you may find there, please always research how the technique may affect the species you are using it on. Personally, I won't employ or list some of these methods as they are potentially very damaging practices. This can be achieved in a number of ways, some of which are more ethical than others.

How to take off in flightgear fight gear tutorial